CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 1998 by JEB DUNNUCK !

France, Rhone: 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape – Time to Drink!
August 28, 2015

Continuing with my goal to get as many tasting notes – on mature wines – in front of you as possible, I was able to do a small, yet relatively complete retrospective of the 1998 Chateauneuf du Papes. I tasted the wines (numerous times in many cases) in larger tastings at the syndicates in Chateauneuf du Pape, at domaine visits with producers and included bottles sourced from my cellar.

Now at age 17, all of the 1998 Chateauneuf du Papes are fully mature with the top wines drinking beautifully and showing fabulously sweet fruit, full-bodied texture and a focused, delineated style. It is worth noting that I don’t think there’s a single wine that will markedly improve going forward. However, the top wines will hold nicely for another 5-10 years in most cases. As I think the notes show, some of the lesser wines are starting to fade with the best wines positioned right in the middle to latter half of their drink windows. Most benefit from a short decant (to remove light sediment) and improve over the evening with aeration.

As to the vintage, 1998 was a hot, dry year and produced, big, full-bodied Chateauneuf du Papes that have considerable tannin and structure. Laurent Charvin compared the vintage to a blend of 2010 and 2009, though I think a comparison to a hypothetical mix of 1989 and 1990 is appropriate as well. The wines are more structured and tannic than 2000, yet have more fruit and sweetness than 2005. Even today, there’s ample tannic grip in the wines; however, few are under-fruited and the best have a beautiful core of sweet fruit that keeps you pouring another glass. The 1998 vintage is certainly one of the great vintages of the past 25-30 years. In addition, it is also the greatest vintage drinking at full maturity today. If you have bottles in your cellar, now is a perfect time to break out that corkscrew!

—Jeb Dunnuck98_Page_1 98_Page_2

SUPERBE SELECTION DANS LE BETTANE DESSEAUVE 2016 ( TRES TRES BON GUIDE !!!)

TARDIEU LAURENT 5*

BOSQUET DES  PAPES  3* ,DOMAINE DES BOSQUET 3*,BROTTE 2*,CABASSE 2*,CLOS DU CAILLOU *,CHARBONNIERE 3*,LE CHENE BLEU 3*, COTEAUX DES TRAVERS 2*,CONSTANT DUQUEYNOIS 2*,DUSEIGNEUR 2 *,DOMAINE DES FLORETS 2*,DOMAINE DE FOND CROZE 1 *,CHATEAU FONT DU LOUP 2 *,GABRIEL MEFFRE 2 *, DOMAINE GIRAUD 3*,LES CAILLOUX 2*,LES HALOS DE JUPITER 3 *,DOMAINE LONGUE TOQUE 3 *, DOMAINE MABY 2 *,VIGNOBLES MAYARD 3*,CLOS MONT OLIVET 4*,CHATEAU DE NAGES 2*, ORATOIRE SAINT MARTIN 3*,ROMAIN ROCHE 1*,ROUVE SAINT LEGER 3 *,CLOS SAINT JEAN 3*,CHATEAU DE VAUDIEU 3*,VILLEUNEUVE 2*
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GUIDE ROUGE de LA RVF 2016 de nombreux domaines ( ABBE DINE & ROCHE NOUVEAU TALENT)

DANS LE GUIDE ROUGE  :  DOMAINE PORTE ROUGE 15/20 ,MAISON BROTTE 14/20 ,MICHEL GASSIER  15,5/20 ,CHATEAU DE NAGES 14,5/20 ,ESCARAVAILLES  15/20, FONTCROZE 14,5/20 , GRAND NICOLET 15/20 , L’ABBE DINE ( NOUVEAU TALENT !!!) 14/20 ,DOMAINE ROCHE ( NOUVEAU TALENT !!!) 14,5/20 ,  TARDIEU LAURENT  14/20 , ORATOIRE SAINT MARTIN   15/20 ,DOMAINE MABY 15,5/20 , CHATEAU JUVENAL 15,5 /20 ,
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les HALOS DE JUPITER dans le BETANNE DESSEAUVE

encore un oublie dans le guide, la gamme halos de Jupiter n’existerais pas sans MICHEL GASSIER, les sélections de vins et surtout les élevages sont fait conjointement et dans ces chais,je tenais a le préciser .

JE SUIS HEUREUX QUE NOUS AILLONS TROIS ETOILES ENSEMBLE

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DOMAINE GIRAUD  » ROBERT PARKER » 2010 100 PTE !!!

erp_title_hedgazBÜ’s Restaurant, Bar & Bütique
March 2015
Robert Parker

This was a fabulous restaurant, a real Swiss bistro, with abundant portions, an absolutely outrageous fine wine list, with terrific California selections and heavy on Rhône wines. The food was sensational, with one of the best Quiche Lorraine’s I have ever eaten. In addition, they served possibly the finest Veal Cordon Bleu I have ever had – perfectly cooked veal stuffed with high-quality ham and several Swiss cheeses. It was sumptuous, rib-sticking and incredibly satisfying.

The wines all hit the high points of the night, probably aided by the great ambience, cuisine and just a fun time. The 2011 F.X. Pichler Rielsing Unendlich (we drank down two bottles) was absolutely outrageously rich and honeyed with loads of caramelized citrus, a touch of tropical fruit, but great minerality and precision. This guy’s wines are also known for their unreal purity of character, and both bottles had that in spades.

We then moved to two of my favorite Châteauneuf du Papes of all time. An old-vine, 100% Grenache cuvée grown in pure sandy soils near Château Rayas, the 2010 Domaine Giraud Les Grenaches de Pierre was dense purple, still youthful and young, but showed unbelievable levels of black cherry fruit, black raspberry, earth and spice. It is full-bodied, extravagantly rich and a total hedonistic, intellectual turn-on. It should continue to drink well for at least another 10-15 years, if you can somehow manage to keep your hands off of it. That was followed by a magnum of 2007 Domaine de Pégaü Cuvée da Capo, which was out of this world, in a more traditional style, with loads of garrigue, licorice, roasted meats, beef blood and plenty of kirsch liqueur. This was killer Châteauneuf du Pape as well.

All things considered, this was a great night, with some of my best friends, including an old buddy from Lucerne who has a great wine shop there, Carl Studer; my business manager, Joe James; our young turk who checks out wine-tasting and eating venues for us, Oliver Mumenthaler, and we were occasionally joined by the beautiful waitress at this tiny bistro as well as the exuberant proprietor. This is my kind of place, and I highly recommend it if you are ever in Zurich.

BÜ’s Restaurant, Address: Kuttelgasse 15, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
Tel. : +41 44 211 94 11

Food

Course 1: – Quiche Lorraine
Course 2: – Swiss Veal Cordon Bleu

Vintage Wine Rating
2011 F.X. Pichler Riesling Unendlich 95
2010 Domaine Giraud Les Grenaches de Pierre Châteauneuf du Pape  
100

Unknown

2007 Domaine de Pégaü Cuvée da Capo Châteauneuf du Pape (magnum) 99