TENET WINES by JEB DUNNUCK !

Tenet Wines2015 - 1

Rhone superstars Philippe Cambie and Michel Gassier’s first foray into Washington, Tenet is a joint project with Bob Bertheau at Chateau Ste. Michelle, where all three collaborate on vineyard selections, farming and blending. They do to classic Syrahs, one from Michel’s estate in Costieres de Nimes and one from Columbia Valley, with the idea to present a textbook example of each region, and it’s a treat to taste these side by side. In addition, the top cuvee is the GSM blend, which comes from different sites in the Columbia Valley. These are all high-quality wines well worth checking out.

2013 Tenet GSM – 95

The real superstar in the lineup is the 2013 Tenet GSM, which checks in as a mix of 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 25% Mourvedre that spent 12 months in neutral French oak. Ripe, voluptuous and thrillingly textured, this beauty boasts fabulous aromatics of red and black raspberries, melted licorice, pepper and assorted floral characteristics. These all come together nicely on the palate where the wine is full-bodied, has no hard edges, a big, layered mid-palate and blockbuster length. Count me impressed. This Chateauneuf du Pape look-alike will have a decade or more of longevity.

2013 The Pundit Syrah – 912015 - 2

Coming from the Columbia Valley in Washington State, the 2013 Syrah The Pundit (94% Syrah, 3% Grenache, 2% Mourvedre and 1% Viognier, all cofermented) is a classic Washington State Syrah that saw roughly 15-20% stems and aging in 23% new French oak and 16% new American oak, with the balance all in neutral French oak. It has outstanding notes of black raspberries, violets, spice and vanilla bean, medium-bodied richness, an elegant, seamless texture and a great finish. Ripe, rounded, fleshy and a joy to drink, it should put a smile on anyone’s face over the coming 4-5 years.

2013 Le Fervent Syrah – 892015 - 3

Coming from the Costieres de Nimes AOC in the Southern Rhone valley of France, the 2013 Syrah Le Fervent is a delicious, balanced and textured Syrah that gives up lots of blackberry and black cherry fruits, pepper, violets and distinct minerality on the nose and palate. Fermented with one-third whole clusters and aged one-third in older barrels and two-thirds in tank, it’s medium-bodied, has solid purity of fruit and nicely integrated acidity, all of which suggest it will drink nicely for 4-5 years.

France, Rhône and Provence: 2014 Rosés June 30, 2015 by jeb DUNNUCK

France, Rhône and Provence: 2014 Rosés
June 30, 2015

The 2014 Rosés are now out in force. This is a great vintage for rosé with the wines showing much more rounded, supple and fruit-forward characters than did the racy 2013s. Given that consumer demand for rosé continues to skyrocket, most retail stores are now devoting substantial real-estate to these wines, which means the selection of quality rosé has never been better.

Among the myriad styles of rosé, there are normally clear distinctions between what each region offers. Provençal rosés offer clean, crisp wines that are very light in color, Côtes du Rhône rosés are slightly more substantial and varied, and Tavel, Gigondas and Bandol generally produce richer, more textured and hefty releases. With the market now craving light/pale pink releases, producers everywhere are responding by making light, crisp and simple rosés, to the point where there’s basically no distinction between a juicy rosé from Provence and what’s coming out of the Côtes du Rhône villages in the Southern Rhone. So radical is the departure from regional stereotypes that even some of the Gigondas and Bandols I reviewed for this report were indistinguishable from a simple, juicy Provençal rosé.

The silver lining in the glass is that the Southern Rhône has nearly perfected the art of making a light, dry, crisp style of rosé. During my extensive rosé tastings in the Rhône Valley, I found most of the wines to be good, clean and perfect for a hot summer day. I drink and buy plenty of rosés in this category and find that in today’s market you can easily find high-quality, well-priced rosés that fit this bill without much shopping around. Don’t make the mistake of spending 25+ dollars on an expensive rosé that you plan to chill the hell out of and chug by the pool. There is plenty of better-value rosé to slake your thirst. Below is a list of some top choices for hot-summer-day quaffing. Nevertheless, while I love the fact that there’s a lot of quality rosé at a good price, the lack of variety or stylistic difference in what I tasted was disappointing.

Since this report is coming out slightly later this year, I was also able to include more rosés from California. There are some gorgeous releases coming from the Sunshine State and diversity of style is definitely there. My only concern with the crisp, lively and straightforward efforts from California is price; most sell for 25+ dollars, and for this trendy style of rosé you can find a similar level of quality from France for half that price.

Since there are close to 200 rosés in this report, I’ve grouped my favorites by style below. In general, the lighter the style, the sooner it should be drunk. While a great Tavel or Bandol can drink nicely for 2-3 years, the uber-crisp, acid-driven releases from Côtes du Rhône and Provence need to be on ice and drunk up in the upcoming summer months.

Full-Flavored, Food-Friendly Rosés

Domaine Maby 2014 Tavel Prima Donna ($18.00) Rose 92

Tardieu-Laurent 2014 Tavel Vieilles Vignes (unknown) Rose 92
Chene Bleu 2014 Rose IGP Vaucluse ($30.00) Rose 91

Crisp Summer Quaffers

Chateau Paradis 2014 Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rose ($20.00) Rose 91

Les Bosquet des Papes 2014 Cotes du Rhone Le Roze de Zaza (unknown) Rose 91

Top Values

Gabriel Meffre 2014 Costieres de Nimes Chateau Grand Escalion Rose ($15.00) Rose 90

Domaine Maby 2014 Lirac la Fermade Rose ($17.00) Rose 91

Domaine Maby 2014 Tavel Prima Donna ($18.00) Rose 92

—Jeb Dunnuckjd_Page_4 jd_Page_3 jd_Page_2 jd_Page_1

je serais sur NOVA dimanche entre 10H et 12H en direct

nova-logobientôt sur Nova
Le 14/06/2015 dans JE MANGE DONC JE SUIS
JE MANGE DONC JE SUIS À MONTPELLIER

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Quatrième étape de l’émission gastronomique de Nova et du Fooding en direct de Montpellier !
Je mange donc je suis à Montpellier
Retrouvez dimanche prochain, de 10h à midi, Je mange donc je suis en direct de la Panacée à Montpellier, avec, entre autres, les chefs Guillaume Leclere (que vous ne connaissez pas encore à tort !), Mathieu Perez (prix Fooding d’amour Guide 2015), Jean-François Nicq des Foulards rouges et le wine maker Philippe Cambie.

A l’occasion de l’étape montpelliéraine de Je mange donc je suis, Mathilde Serrel, Matthieu Jauniau et Alexandre Cammas recevront deux BéDéistes star, Montpelliérains d’adoption, Guy Delisle et Lewis Trondheim !

Ils accueilleront également Samy Le Goadec et sa femme (auteurs du livre Mémoire d’une pucelle au cap d’Agde, best seller Q de l’été dernier) diront tout des habitudes alimentaires des gastronomes déculottés de l’Hérault et d’ailleurs.

 

« Le Grenache est un atout majeur pour l’avenir de la Vallée du Rhône » Retour sur la table ronde de Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône 2015

« Le Grenache est un atout majeur pour l’avenir de la Vallée du Rhône »
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Retour sur la table ronde de Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône 2015 2/4
On ne présente plus Philippe Cambie. Célèbre œnologue et amoureux du vin, son nom est fréquemment associé à certains des crus les plus reconnus autour de la Méditerranée. Il se dit lui-même « Terroirist » et défend l’idée de créer des vins à l’image d’un lieu.

« Les vins de terroir trouveront toujours leur place. Il ne faut pas céder à la mode, mais il faut tenir compte des modes de consommation. Aujourd’hui nous buvons les vins plus rapidement, plus jeunes. Alors il faut adapter nos produits à cette demande. »

C’est donc aux vigneronnes et aux vignerons de réconcilier l’expression du terroir avec les envies des consommateurs. Pas une mince affaire. Mais pour Philippe Cambie le Rhône possède un atout majeur : le Grenache. Avec ses rondeurs et ses fruits, ses tanins serrés et ses épices, il est en effet capable de produire des vins bons à boire jeune et bons à garder. Autre élément favorable pour préparer l’avenir, il s’adapte très bien à la cuisine asiatique…

Alors hors de question pour lui de remplacer un facteur viticole majeur comme le Grenache pour faire face à l’évolution climatique. Une évolution qui semble d’ailleurs être assez difficile à anticiper, car ces derniers millésimes étaient plutôt marqués par des phénomènes météorologiques imprévisibles que par une évolution constante vers la chaleur et la puissance dans les vins. L’adaptation du vignoble se fera lentement, en ajustant sur les bords. En attendant, il faut avancer en améliorant encore et toujours la qualité des produits tout en soignant nos terroirs.

« Je pense que l’agriculture biologique prendra plus de place encore dans les années à venir. La vigne est une monoculture. Il y a donc plus de nécessité à s’occuper de la santé des sols, de l’environnement. Le bio me semble le plus approprié pour y arriver. »

 

Harvey Steiman At Large (WINESPECTATOR) TENET WINE Tenet Wines is a new collaboration between Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Michel Gassier

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Rhône in Washington

A promising new project from Syrah stars of France’s Rhône Valley and Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle

Posted: May 26, 2015

Even if Syrah still doesn’t get the respect it deserves, the grape makes some of Washington’s most compelling wines.

Tenet Wines is a new collaboration between Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Michel Gassier, the owner of Château de Nages in France’s Costière de Nîmes, which aims to apply a French sensibility to Rhône varieties in Washington. A preview of the initial releases suggests this is something to watch.

« Sandy soils are my favorite in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, » said Philippe Cambie, a leading wine consultant in the Southern Rhône Valley who is working with Tenet Wines. « They give finesse. You see them all over Washington, and the basalt underneath is unusual in the wine world. »

I tasted the first of the wines—two from Washington and one from France, all from the 2013 vintage—with Gassier, Cambie, Château Ste. Michelle winemaker Bob Bertheau and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates chief winemaker Doug Gore.

« We’re trying to find a balance between fruit and elegance, » said Bertheau. For a more savory style, he’s using techniques such as fermenting with stems and extended maceration, which he resisted for his own wines. Cambie and Gassier showed his team how it can work.

For the initial 2013s, the team tried every likely site in the 100,000 acres of Syrah in Ste. Michelle’s estate vineyards and available in long-term contracts. After looking at more than 100 lots, Cambie saw distinctions among Wahluke Slope, Red Mountain, Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills, especially in the company’s Canoe Ridge estate. Future vintages should zero in on favored sites.

Of the two wines rolling out now, I preferred The Pundit, a $25 Syrah. It corrals deep black fruit flavors with lightly crunchy tannins, a touch of roasted red pepper on the persistent finish. Less showy than many Washington Syrahs, I liked its sense of integrity.

A wine from Gassier’s vines in Costière de Nîmes, Le Fervent ($22) plays its crisp texture against a hint of wet concrete in the ripe fruit and spice, finishing with charm. A pioneer in modern Costières, Gassier has earned outstanding ratings since he took over his family’s estate in 1993.

Due in autumn, the top wine, called Tenet ($75), blends Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre. « Grenache needs older vines, and there aren’t too many of those in Washington, » said Gore. The core is Grenache from Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek vineyard, just south of Wahluke Slope, planted in the 1970s for rosé.

« Washington Grenache has ideal balance, » said Gassier. « It has freshness, fruit and elegance. » The wine has precision. Its crisp structure reins in the generous nature of Grenache and Syrah. And the Mourvèdre shows no extra gaminess or earthiness.
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The Tenet Wines labels are distinctive, too. A bold image of a stern-faced owl defines the shape of the Pundit label; the Tenet label is an ambigram in a stylized medieval font on a diagonal sticker. They’re meant to appeal to wine drinkers in their twenties and thirties. « For the first time we went to an outside designer, » Gore said. « If we’re going to restore the sparkle to Syrah, it will have to come from a younger generation. »