ANDRE DEVALD écrit dans la revue Penge & Privatøkonomi, . La cuvée Serre Rouge 2014 du DOMAINE DE BRAMADOU a gagné le titre comme meilleur vin pour le repas de noël danois. En plus , le panel de dégustateurs a jugé (à l’aveugle) son valeur à plus que le double que le prix de vente. Autrement dit, une bouteille très réussis avec un rapport qualité-prix imbattable.
- The vintages in « 5″ that often bring luck.
- 1985, 1995, 2005 and 2015 – are carriers of successes in the Rhone Valley,
-. It must be said that 2015 has Trump argue, with almost optimal climatic conditions for each season! Thus, the winter is rainy, allowing the vines to build good water reserves. the year was the warmest and sunniest throughout our territory since the beginning of meteorological statistics. Sunniest so that 1947 or 1921. Spring is relatively late with 3 weeks late compared to 2014. But the good weather sets in gradually and flowering takes place in excellent conditions: the output of grapes is simply exceptional. Then the summer comes quickly, the months of June, July and August are extremely hot. one can not speak of heat, because the nights are cool. The temperature ranges are very high, which promotes the presence of tannins and color. No disease pressure, the vineyard and the winemaker breathe freely. Everything is in good shape before starting the harvest!
- The Syrah are exceptional in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the Grenache and Mourvèdre gave the feeling of being blocked by the heat wave. They were released after the September 22-23, in the final great wines with great elegance, both on the sands on clays, a beautiful millesime that gives pleasure.
L’été a été chaud et sec, nous avons eu très peut de précipitation, mais le climat a été assez favorable des jours très chaud, mais surtout des nuits fraiche.
Un état sanitaire exceptionnel, quelques rare cas d’oïdium tardif et une quatrième génération de vers un peut agressive. A part cela pratiquement pas de tris et une qualité exceptionnelle de la vendange.
Des quantités extraordinaires et record d’anthocyanes et de poly phénol sur syrah, grenache et mourvèdre.
Nous allons avoir des vins rouge riches, colorées tailler pour la grande garde, et des blanc plein de suavité, des roussane et clairettes exceptionnelles.
Pour moi un de mes meilleurs millésimes vinifier ! Avec une bonne réponse de tout type de sols, le grand millésime du grenache !!!
Des vins de grande puissance sur la Crau, des vins avec énormément de finesse et de classe sur les sables, des vins riche et solaire sur les quartiers du sud !!! Rien ne manque.
Une grande homogénéité qualitative de l’appellation, avec un volume de récolte dans l’ensemble assez généreuse.
Un millésime qui devrait plaire à la presse et consommateur Anglos saxon
Like the Tradition bottlings described yesterday, most of these supposedly special cuvées were tasted blind by me in the village of Châteauneuf, pictured here in the early morning sunshine from a vantage point I was taken to in order to film a little video paying tribute to Austrian wine (yes, strange). The long day’s blind tastings, from carefully paper-bagged bottles, take place in the tasting room of the efficient interprofessional headquarters that sees most commentators on Rhône wines each year.
Before arriving there this year I was rather taken aback to learn that there would be more Cuvées Spéciales than Tradition bottlings. The former are meant to be really superior seasonings while the latter represent the meat of the appellation. Some producers such as the hugely admired Clos des Papes and Ch Rayas refuse to play the Cuvée Spéciale game and make only one red wine each year, no matter what the growing season throws at them. But an increasing number of others, it seems, are making a growing number of special bottlings – distinguished by coming from a special plot, or having a different varietal make-up from the main blend.
(As with the Tradition bottlngs, Tam has worked incredibly hard, using information provided by the producers and the Syndicat, to provide the make-up of, and technical background to, each wine as an accompaniment to my tasting note. Note that the acidity (TA) levels are expressed as sulphuric so they may look low. To convert them to tartaric, multiply by roughly 1.5.)
In many cases with these 2015s I found it difficult to see why they were superior. Indeed I found more faulty, or borderline faulty, wines among the 119 Cuvée Spéciales I tasted blind in Châteauneuf than in the 118 Tradition bottlings I tasted blind there, with excess volatile acidity being a particular problem in wines from this very hot summer.
As with the Tradition wines, I found the colours more varied than ever. There were very few of the unappetising fruit bombs that one used to encounter, and very few obviously oaky wines. Instead, many of the better wines described below showed a quality that could be described, fashionably, as ‘minerality’ and freshness. Despite the relatively high alcohol levels, there was no shortage of wines with cool finishes, I’m delighted to report. As elsewhere, better winemakers seem to have solved the problem of uncomfortably hot finishes associated with high alcoholic strength.
So, overall, the trends among these Cuvées Spéciales mirrored those among the Tradition bottlings and the main difference between the two groups was more stylistic than qualitative.
A total of 125 wines are described below and they are listed in the order tasted so that if you choose the default setting, you will be able easily to spot any late additions at the end of the list. But you are, as usual, free to choose how they are ordered, as below.
Order by defaultscoreproducervintage ascendingvintage descendingappellation
Tardieu Laurent, Cuvée Spéciale 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 99% Grenache (over 100 years old), 1% mystery grape! Bottom of La Crau on sandy soils. 100% whole bunch, aged in one- and two-year-old barrels. (No Châteauneuf Vieilles Vignes this year because Michel Tardieu thought the sandy soils succeeded more than the galets.)
Deep ruby. Very rich nose. Really intense fruit followed by almost medicinal flavours and masses of tannin. Ambitious. But great finesse of texture too. And quite a bit of alcohol on the end with real juiciness. 14.5% Drink 2020-2030 £325 per case of 12 ib RRP 17+
Ch de Vaudieu (Bréchet), Val de Dieu 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Destemmed. Vinified at 25 °C in stainless steel (40%) and concrete tanks (60%). Aged for 18 months, 80% in demi-muids, 20% in stainless steel vats. pH 3.7, TA 3.2 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark crimson with some minerality. Even a bit of finesse. This is really quite exciting. Nervy as well as very ripe. 15% Drink 2023-2033 17.5
Le Clos du Caillou, Les Safres 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Bédines. 95% Grenache, 2% Cinsault, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Vaccarèse. Destemmed and vinified in tronconic vats. Aged in foudres for 17 months. pH 3.54, TA 3.74 g/l.
Tasted blind. Healthy crimson. Overripe notes on the nose. And then rather pinched acidity and astringency on the palate. Not a great success. 15% Drink 2021-2027 15.5
Ch de Vaudieu (Bréchet), Amiral G 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 100% Grenache. Destemmed and vinified at 25 °C in concrete tanks. Aged for 18 months in demi-muids. pH 3.9, TA 2.91 g/l.
Tasted blind. Mid ruby. Pale rim. Looks very evolved. Sweet and rich and as comfortable as an old pair of slippers – though it’s difficult to see how a 2015 can be so mature! Sweet and spicy with structure but no obvious tannin-in-waiting. 15% Drink 2018-2026 16.5
Le Clos du Caillou, Les Quartz 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Cassanets. 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah. Destemmed and vinified in tronconic vats. Aged for 17 months in demi-muids (85%) and old barriques (15%). pH 3.5, TA 3.55 g/l.
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Gamey, spicy notes and awfully sweet on the palate. Could do with just a tad more freshness. Rather astringent, messy finish. 15% Drink 2023-2032 16
Ch de Vaudieu (Bréchet), L’Avenue 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vaudieu. 100% Grenache. Destemmed. Vinification at 25 °C in concrete tanks. Matured for 18 months in demi-muids. pH 3.64, TA 3.7 g/l.
Tasted blind. Mid crimson. Hint of damp fur on the nose and slightly pinched fruit on the palate. Morello cherries and some definite sweetness and then drawn up into a fine tannic finish. Needs time. 15% Drink 2024-2035 16.5
Le Clos du Caillou, La Réserve 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Guigasse, Pignan (south). 60% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre. Destemmed and vinified in tronconic vats. Aged in demi-muids. pH 3.76, TA 3.35 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark cherry red. Nose needs a little persuasion out of the glass. Cool, fresh, almost salty finish. Refreshing wine. Not like most people’s idea of Châteauneuf! 15% Drink 2024-2034 17
Dom de la Charbonnière, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau, Le Grand Pierre. 95% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre. Partial whole-bunch fermentation at 29 °C followed by ageing in tronconic vats (95%) and demi-muids (5%). pH 3.79, TA 2.95 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark cherry red and a bit of gas. Difficult to see the refinement of the raspberry-jam fruit. 15.5% Drink 2024-2032 16
Dom de la Charbonnière, Les Hautes Brusquières 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Brusquières. 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. Partial whole-bunch fermentation at 29 °C in tronconic vats (80%), stainless steel (15%) and demi-muids (5%). Matured in tronconic vats (95%) and demi-muids (5%). pH 3.9, TA 2.96 g/l.
Tasted blind. Greyish mid crimson. Another wine, like the Charbonnière Vieilles Vignes tasted just before, that has quite a bit of gas in it. Very austere, drying finish after some very sweet fruit. 15.5% Drink 2023-2030 16-
Dom de la Charbonnière, Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 69% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 1% Cinsault. Destemmed. Vinified at 28 °C in tronconic vats (90%) and stainless steel (10%). Aged in tronconic vats (75%), demi-muids (20%) and old barriques (5%). pH 3.7, TA 2.98 g/l.
Tasted blind. Healthy crimson. Some light savoury notes on the nose. Then masses of sweet, ripe, juicy fruit and relatively light tannins. Can’t quite see why this is a Cuvée Spéciale. Astringent finish. 15.5% Drink 2023-2030 16.5
Dom de la Charbonnière, Singularis 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 100% Grenache. Partial whole-bunch fermentation at 29 °C in tronconic vats followed by ageing in tronconic vats (95%) and demi-muids (5%). pH 3.9, TA 2.96 g/l.
Tasted blind. Bright cherry red. Pale rim. Very light nose and pungent on the palate – almost like licking a cinder. A bit lacking juice. Falls away suddenly. 15.5% Drink 2022-2029 15.5
Jean Royer, Les Sables de la Crau 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau. 100% Grenache. Partial whole-bunch fermentation in stainless steel. Aged for 12 months in demi-muids. pH 3.5, TA 3.5 g/l.
Tasted blind. Transparent cherry red. Hint of coconut on the nose. Then lots of cherryade. Nothing too forced here and quite a streak of acidity. But why is it cuvée spéciale, I wonder? Rather rasping tannins on the end. 16% Drink 2023-2030 16.5
Jean Royer, Prestige 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Bois de la Ville, Les Grandes Serres. 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre. Partial whole-bunch fermentation in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Aged in demi-muids and in stainless-steel vats. pH 3.5, TA 3.5 g/l.
Tasted blind. Mid garnet. Neat, well-integrated and balanced nose. Very sweet start and very nicely balanced. Sweet but not sickly Grenache that is fully ripe and well counterbalanced by fine tannins and just enough acidity. 16% Drink 2024-2033 17.5
Dom du Grand Tinel, Alexis Establet 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Gardiole. 100% Grenache. Destemmed and vinified at 27 °C, one-third each in stainless steel, tronconic vats and concrete tanks. 35% is aged in demi-muids, 35% in new barriques and 30% in foudres. pH 3.54, TA 3.65 g/l.
Tasted blind. Mid dark ruby. Light, sinewy attack of the palate. Confident stuff. Not that thick – more transparent. Lightly dry tannins on the end but excellent energy. 15.5% Drink 2024-2034 17
Dom du Grand Tinel, Heres 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 100% Grenache. Destemmed. Fermented at 27 °C and aged for 18 months, all in stainless steel. pH 3.5, TA 3.66 g/l.
Tasted blind. Mid crimson. Heady, very ripe, sweet and spicy on the nose but not at all heavy on the palate. Polished tannins and some transparency of fruit. Very well done. 15.5% Drink 2024-2035 17.5
Ch de la Font du Loup, Le Puy Rolland 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Font du Loup. 100% Grenache. Destemmed. Vinification at 28 °C in concrete tanks (70%) and stainless steel (30%). Aged half in foudres and half in concrete tanks. pH 3.82, TA 3.36 g/l.
Tasted blind. Pale to mid cherry red. Light nose and some green strawberry flavours on a rather diffuse palate. A tad astringent on the finish. Why is this a cuvée spéciale? 14.5% Drink 2022-2029 16
Ch de la Font du Loup, Legend 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Font du Loup. 65% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 10% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinification at 28 °C in concrete tanks (60%) and stainless steel (40%). Aged for 18 months, 65% in demi-muids, 25% in foudres and 10% in new barriques. pH 3.79, TA 3.37 g/l.
Tasted blind. Firm crimson. Meaty nose with some interest and verve. Sweet start – very round and emphatic with some burnished, round tannins on the end. Quite ambitious! 14.5% Drink 2024-2034 17
Dom Clef de St-Thomas, La Clef de St-Thomas 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cansaud, Les Serres. 50% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinification at 25 °C followed by ageing in demi-muids (40%), old barriques (40%) and new barriques (20%). pH 3.65, TA 3.11 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark purple. Very pale rim. Savoury notes on a very ripe nose. There is some energy here as well as the richness of fully ripe elderberries. Fine tannins. 14% Drink 2023-2033 17
St-Paul, L’Insolite 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Boucoup, Pied Redon. 100% Syrah. Destemmed and vinified at 27 °C in stainless steel. Matured in demi-muids (70%) and old barriques (30%). pH 3.59, TA 3.54 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Ripe and round with emphatic freshness and ripeness. Black fruits dominate until very slightly rasping tannins on the end. 14% Drink 2024-2034 16.5+
Mayard, La Crau de Ma Mère 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. Whole-bunch fermentation in concrete tanks followed by ageing in foudres. pH 3.95, TA 2.8 g/l.
Tasted blind. Blackish ruby. Very sweet start and an edge of leafiness. Lots to enjoy even if it’s still a little astringent, and hot, on the end for the moment. 15% Drink 2023-2033 17-
Olivier Hillaire, Les Terrasses 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Escondudes. 100% Grenache. Destemmed. Vinified at 28 °C in concrete tanks. Aged for 15 months in new barriques. pH 2, TA 2 g/l.
Tasted blind. Light to mid ruby. Nothing very distinctive on the nose but massive kirsch sweetness on the palate. Very Châteauneuf. This gives the impression of knowing what it’s doing, even if the finish is initially pretty hot. It then cools down on the finish. Really rather admirable with real vivacity and intensity but it needs time. 15.5% Drink 2026-2040 18
Olivier Hillaire, Les Petits Pieds d’Armand 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau (west). 100% Grenache. Destemmed. Vinified at 28 °C in concrete tanks. Aged for 16 months in new barriques. pH 2, TA 2 g/l.
Tasted blind. Mid cherry red. Sweet and almost syrupy with leathery tannins and not quite enough freshness. Massive heat on the end! Excellent for those who seek mere power. Which explains my score. 16.5% Drink 2023-2032 17-
Patrice Magni, Cuvée Le Pressoir 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Relagnes. 60% Mourvèdre, 40% Grenache. Partial whole-bunch fermentation at 28 °C in concrete tanks. Aged for 20 months, 60% in old barriques and 40% in concrete tanks. pH 3.5, TA 3.7 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Heady, wild and rich nose – reminds me of the biscuits we call(ed?) Gypsy Creams in Britain. Lots to get your teeth into even if the tannins are still a little leathery. Cool finish. 15% Drink 2023-2032 17
Dom Clef de St-Thomas, Pierre Troupel 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasted blind. Transparent ruby. Vital, refreshing, rather rosy fruit. Perhaps not one of the most distinctive wines – in fact it reminds me powerfully of several of the Tradition bottlings – but it should please many drinkers tired of overripe wines. Tannins still a tad astringent on the end but this should mature reasonably early. Drink 2022-2029 16.5
Bosquet des Papes, À la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Gardiole. 98% Grenache, 1% Cinsault, 1% Clairette. Vines aged between 60 and 70 years. Vinification in concrete tanks, with half the grapes destemmed and the rest fermented as whole bunches. Aged for 12 months, 80% in demi-muids and 20% in foudres.
Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Cool start and very round in terms of very sweet candied fruit. Could do with very slightly more freshness. But it’s a good effort taken to the limits of ripeness. A medicinal hint. Well done. 15% Drink 2023-2035 17
Bosquet des Papes, La Folie 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Montredon. 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre. From a parcel of 100-year-old vines known as ‘La Folie’ on the plateau of Mont Redon. Grapes are destemmed. Vinification at 26 °C in concrete tanks. Aged for 18 months, 90% in demi-muids and 10% in new barriques.
Tasted blind. Healthy crimson. Very sweet start and some perceptible oak. Just slightly too heavy for comfort. A bit soupy. 15% Drink 2023-2030 16
Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle Vieilles Vignes 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barbe d’Asne, Les Brusquières, Montredon, Pignan (north). 86% Grenache, 7% Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre. From a selection of old vines of 80 to 90 years old from different terroirs across the appellation. Whole-bunch fermentation at 26 °C in concrete tanks. Matured for 15 months, 60% in foudres, 30% in demi-muids and 10% in concrete tank.
Tasted blind. Dark ruby. Slightly chemical overlay on some bright, briary fruit with masses of grainy tannins. A long-term wine. 15% Drink 2026-2039 16.5
Brotte, Dom de Barville Secret de Léonce 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Janasse, Bois Dauphin. 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre. Destemmed and fermented in concrete tanks, followed by 12 months ageing in oak barrels. pH 3.65, RS < 2 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark, purplish healthy crimson. Heady, fully ripe nose with sufficient freshness but no greenness. Zesty wine with more life than many would expect of this appellation. Lightly drying tannins on the very end at the moment. 14.5% Drink 2024-2036 16.5
Gabriel Meffre, Laurus 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau. 60% Grenache (some from 80-year-old vines), 40% Syrah. Grapes are destemmed. All the Syrah and half the Grenache is matured in old pièces for around 18 months. RS < 3 g/l.
Tasted blind. Dark, dense crimson. Big, sweet, very ripe black-cherry aromas and lively, leathery tannins and sufficient acid and no green. A solid, if not absolutely thrilling, effort. Drink 2024-2034 16.5
Giraud, Les Grenaches de Pierre 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasted blind. Mid crimson. Pale rim. A bit of liquorice on amazingly sweet fruit. Not that much acidity but quite a bit of fine tannin. Ambitious and it could only be Châteauneuf! Needs lots of time for these tannins to dissipate but, I hope, the fruit should wait. Drink 2026-2038 17
Giraud, Les Gallimardes 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasted blind. Healthy ruby. Meaty and appetising with candied rose-petal flavours underneath. Rather glamorous and interesting. Long and alcoholic but it wraps you up in its velvety appeal. Masses of charm and richness. Drink 2024-2040 17.5+
They’re very happy about 2015 reds in Châteauneuf, but even prouder of their 2016s. I heard 2015 likened to the particularly ripe 2009 or 2005 vintages while 2016, with its excellent pH levels, is said to be more like the fresher, more structured 2010.
They’re particularly happy about the more generous yields of 2015, especially after the tiny yields of 2014 and 2013. ‘The last vintage that was generous in quantity was 2007′, observed Mr Gloom, Paul-Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes, one of the few producers to eschew the increasing practice of making supposedly superior Cuvées Spéciales as opposed to the regular bottlings known locally as Tradition wines.
Popular oenologist Philippe Cambie reports that the year was ‘the warmest and sunniest throughout our territory since the beginning of meteorological statistics’. Spring arrived three weeks later than in 2014 but fine weather set in and the flowering took place in perfect conditions resulting in fruit set he describes as ‘simply exceptional’.
Spring rainfall of 170 mm (6.7 in) had been relatively normal but June and July were particularly dry and hot with many a day over 37 °C (100 °F). From mid June to mid August less than 60 mm of rain fell. Total hours of sunshine from April to September was 1,941, more than in 2010 and 2011, which everyone thought of as being particularly sunny. The vintage was arguably rescued from dangerously sunburnt, dried-out grapes by rain in mid August, and the fact that although days were torrid, nights were not and these lower temperatures probably helped the phenolics.
Disease pressure was minimal and the harvest relatively tranquil. White wine grapes were picked at the end of August, Syrah was the first red wine grape variety to ripen in most places, and was particularly admired in 2015. Grenache and Mourvèdre, particularly in the south of the appellation, suffered more from vine shut down and some of the latter were picked as late as mid October.
Thanks to the drought, the grapes had thick skins and care had to be taken not to extract the high levels of phenolics too enthusiastically. I found both the colour and the styles of wine all over the place – hardly surprising perhaps when I tasted more than 120 Tradition bottlings of Châteauneuf – with wines varying from pale burgundy colour to that of dark claret. In fact there seemed to be quite a significant proportion of wines made in a somewhat burgundian fashion – far more than there used to be. The influence of whole-bunch fermentations seems to be growing. But I encountered a far lower proportion of wines with uncomfortably drying finishes than I did in the north. There seemed to be much, much less over-extraction or over-oaking than there was a few years ago. Overall I thought there was a big improvement in winemaking.
Although I encountered some green, unripe phenolics (presumably the result of blocked ripening in Grenache and/or Mourvèdre), tannins in general seemed pretty ripe. Sweet cherry – red and black – notes were common and there were many transparent floral styles, with the best managing a rather mineral note too. I think many people who have found red Châteauneuf too much in the recent past would warm to this well-balanced style. See the wide range of alcohol levels specified.
The 128 wines are in the order tasted. We will be adding to these notes so any late additions will appear at the end. However, if you want to order the notes differently, you can use the menu below – and then return to the default order if you want to see those additions.
The background information in italics was provided by the producers via the Syndicat. Don’t forget that the French tend to express acidity as sulphuric, which is why the TA figures might look low. (Multiply by roughly 1.5 to see acidity expressed as tartaric.)
Order by defaultscoreproducervintage ascendingvintage descendingappellation
Tardieu Laurent 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 70% Grenache (60-80 years old), 25% Syrah (40 years old), 5% Cinsault (60 to 80 years old). Les Bedines, La Crau on big rounded pebbles, Les Gardioles, Coste Froide. Half whole bunch, aged in one-year-old barrels. (Whatever do they do with their new ones?!)
Dark ruby with a pale rim. Broad and warm, quite evolved, on the nose. Approachable already in a rose-petal sort of wine! Very new-wave Grenache – the Pinot side of the grape. Very charming. This won’t be released until autumn 2017 but I could drink it this evening, even though there is no shortage of very fine tannins on the end. 14.5% Drink 2017-2024 £215 per case of 12 ib 17
Ch de Vaudieu (Bréchet) 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vaudieu. pH 3.65, TA 3.2 g/l. 81% Grenache, 19% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in stainless steel. Aged for 12 months: 15% demi-muid, 19% very old barrique, 66% cement tanks.
Tasted blind. Pale greyish crimson. Rather industrial nose and pinched palate – no great distinction. Slightly jammy. Astringent finish. 15% Drink 2021-2029 15
Le Clos du Caillou 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Bédines, Les Cassanets. pH 3.64, TA 3.47 g/l. 85% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 15 months in foudre.
Tasted blind. Refined, direct nose with some sweet fruit on the palate and a certain tightness on the end. Perhaps the tannins and alcohol are just a tad too dominant but the raw material is good, even if there is a slightly stewed note. 14.5% Drink 2024-2034 16
Brotte, Dom de Barville 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Beau Renard, Colombis, Combes Masques, Pradel. pH 3.6, TA 3.3 g/l. 80% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 12 months: 30% foudre, 20% new barrels, 20% used barrels, 30% cement.
Tasted blind. Ruby already and quite a bright, healthy colour. Light nose with masses of spice – almost cinnamon! Friendly, fairly early-maturing wine with light well-judged tannins. Some strawberry fruit. 14.5% Drink 2021-2030 16.5
Ch de la Font du Loup 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Font du Loup. pH 3.75, TA 3.29 g/l. 5% Cinsault, 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. Whole bunch. Vinified in 40% stainless steel, 60% cement. Aged for 18 months in 20% foudre, 20% demi-muid, 15% old barrique, 10% stainless steel, 35% cement.
Tasted blind. Very sweet on the nose – like candy floss! Round and flattering with a little rose-petal flavour and lots of appeal. Sufficient acidity and a little bit of tannin. A charmer for early drinking. Not that long. 14.5% Drink 2020-2028 16.5
Ch de la Font du Loup, Les Demoiselles de la Font du Loup 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Bright ruby. Smells industrial. Not much real depth of fruit – just sweet and sour and a bit pinched on the end. Drink 2019-2025 15.5
Dom du Grand Tinel 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape pH 3.55, TA 3.66 g/l. 70% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in 50% stainless steel, 50% cement tank. Aged in 25% each of foudre, demi-muid, stainless steel and cement.
Tasted blind. Healthy bright crimson. Sweet, floral fruit on the nose. Some pepperiness and lots of savoury, energetic fruit. Complete, with some ambition but no need to age that long. 15% Drink 2020-2028 17
St-Paul 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape pH 3.62, TA 3.54 g/l. 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. Whole bunch. Vinified in 90% stainless steel, 10% tronconic vat. Aged in 25% each of foudre, demi-muid, stainless steel and used barrels.
Tasted blind. Dark ruby. Not much nose. Hard-candy flavours but not quite enough grunt in the middle. A bit simple. 14.8% Drink 2019-2026 15.5
Dom des Sénéchaux 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Bois Sénéchaux. pH 3.65, TA 3.2 g/l. 61% Grenache, 17% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in cement, aged in foudre (55%), used barrels (30%), cement (15%).
Tasted blind. Dark ruby. Thick and gamey. Very substantial, complex wine that is actually in balance. Serious, rather sophisticated Châteauneuf. With a future. Good persistence. 14.5% Drink 2024-2036 17.5
Dom Porte Rouge 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis, Pied de Baud, Le Pied Long, Roquete, Terres Blanches, Tresquoys. pH 3.50, TA 3.6 g/l. 80% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in stainless steel (70%), cement (30%). Aged 12 months in used barrels (85%) and stainless steel (15%).
Tasted blind. Mid blackish crimson. Sweet and sleek. Not quite the country cousin. Some oak influence here? Sweet, spicy stuff. Just slightly pinched on the end. 14.5% Drink 2024-2034 16
Le Vieux Donjon 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Crista (north), Moulin à Vent, Mourre de Gaud, Pied de Baud, Pied Long. 5% Cinsault, 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 18 months in foudre.
Tasted blind. Very dark healthy crimson. Lightly medicinal on the nose. Lots of energy here with big fruit impact and fine tannins. This should deliver. A confident, non-formulaic rendition. Long and spicy. Quite intense. 14.8% Drink 2023-2035 17.5
La Consonnière 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Bédines, Font du Loup, Pignan (north), Les Saintes Vierges. pH 4.20, TA 4 g/l. 85% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre. Destemmed. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 22 months in demi-muid (30%) and cement (70%).
Tasted blind. Light ruby. Strawberry fruit. Very salty/savoury. Light and fresh. Not quite the follow through one would hope for. It’s pretty hot and alcoholic on the end. But there is some pleasure here. 15% Drink 2020-2028 16
Jean Royer 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau, Les Grandes Serres. pH 3.50, TA 3.5 g/l. 5% Cinsault, 90% Grenache, 5% Syrah. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in cement and stainless steel. Aged in demi-muid, used barrels and stainless steel.
Tasted blind. Mid ruby. Not much nose. Then lots of genuine concentrated fruit. Very big and round. Lots of life here with no obvious forcing mechanism though for the moment the tannins are a bit dominant. 16% Drink 2024-2033 16.5+
Olivier Hillaire 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Font de Michelle, Grand Pierre, Mourre de Gaud. 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 13 months in used barrels.
Tasted blind. Transparent garnet. Rich and rose-petal perfumed. Already quite resolved but with real energy and interest here. Sweet and transparent. Racy. A twenty-first-century rendition that delivers. Lots underneath. 14.8% Drink 2024-2038 18
Patrice Magni, Sensation 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Bosquets, Relagnes. pH 3.55, TA 3.75 g/l. 70% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in cement tank. Aged in used barrels (30%), and cement (70%).
Tasted blind. Dark ruby. Lots of evolution at the rim. Heady ripeness on the nose. Then very tough and charmless on the palate. Falls away on the end. Shame. 14.5% Drink 2020-2025 15.5
André Brunel, Les Cailloux 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Bois de la Ville, Cansaud, Farguerol (north), Revès, Serres. pH 3.75, TA 3 g/l. 5% Cinsault, 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 18 months in used barrels (10%) and cement (90%).
Tasted blind. Healthy bright garnet. Lightly gamey nose. Lots of sweetness and spice. Then rather tough on the end. Hint of dried coffee. 14% Drink 2024-2034 16.5
Louis Bernard 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. Partial whole bunch. Aged for 12 months.
Tasted blind. Bright crimson. Real drive behind this wine. Rich and thick. Lots of density and some dried herbs. Needs time though. Drink 2023-2035 17
Ravoire & Fils, Olivier Ravoire 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. Destemmed. Aged 12-18 months in 75% cement, 25% new French oak barrels, 225-litre for the Syrah and 600-litre for the Grenache.
Tasted blind. Smudgy mid crimson. Very ripe notes indeed on the nose – kirsch? Could do with a bit more freshness but it certainly delivers sweet, ripe fruit. Plus an unusual vanilla note. Drink 2020-2028 16
Mayard, Clos du Calvaire 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape pH 3.99, TA 2.79 g/l. 10% Cinsault, 70% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified and aged in cement tank.
Tasted blind. Pale to mid garnet. Interest and savour on the nose with nothing forced. Floral idiom and lovely balance on the palate. Polished tannins with a really appetising ‘mineral’ note. 15% Drink 2022-2033 17.5
Mayard, Dom du Père Pape 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape pH 3.9, TA 2.8 g/l. 5% Cinsault, 60% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah. Whole bunch. Vinified in cement tank. Aged in foudre.
Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Ripe, floral nose. Rich and roistering on the palate. Ripe tannins. Substantial wine with quite a bit of herbiness. 15% Drink 2023-2033 17
Bosquet des Papes 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barbe d’Asne, Bois de Boursan, Bosquets, Esqueirons, Gardiole, Grandes Serres, Mont Pertuis, Montredon, Pignan (north), Terres Blanches. 1% Cinsault, 1% Counoise, 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah, 1% Vaccarèse. Partial whole bunch. Vinified in cement tank. Aged for 12 months in foudre (60%), demi-muid (20%), cement (20%).
Tasted blind. Bright crimson. Sweet and toasty on the nose. Then a bit of a rusty-nail sensation on the finish. 15% Drink 2022-2030 15.5
Gabriel Meffre, St-Théodoric 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mostly Grenache with some Syrah. Partially destemmed. 14 months’ ageing in 70% stainless steel and 30% barrique.
Tasted blind. Exceptionally dark crimson with a healthy glow. Very intense, somehow ‘glossy’-fruited nose. A little severe and beef extract on the end but it’s certainly ambitious. Very sweet start and showing lots of effort in tannin management. Inky end. Drink 2022-2029 16.5
Duseigneur 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasted blind. Mid crimson. Rich, potent nose. Very sweet start. Ambitious. Lots there and set for the long term with a lot of fine tannins on the end. Every ounce extracted from the grapes … A little 1990s. Very hot finish. Not quite appetising enough. Drink 2025-2035 16
Dom de la Charbonnière 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape pH 3.77, TA 2.95 g/l. 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in stainless steel (50%) and tronconic vats (50%). Aged in foudre (10%), demi-muid (20%), used barrels (5%), stainless steel (5%), and tronconic vats (60%).
Tasted blind. Mid crimson with a fairly pale rim. Smudgy nose – indistinct. Bright, sweet cherry fruit. Lots of charm and ambition. Needs time for the tannins to soften but it’s serious stuff. Long. 15% Drink 2025-2035 16.5+
Giraud, Prémices 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasted blind. One of the palest wines in this range. Completely transparent cherry red. Sweet and round and almost rude in its simplicity! Like a candied apple. But not really much depth. A bit scrawny overall. Dry tannins on the end. Drink 2019-2025 15.5
Copyright © 2016 Jancis Robinson